Climbing

CRAGS AND ROUTES IN MARMOLADA

Inexperienced hikers or those unfamiliar with the area should rely on the assistance of the local Alpine and Hiking Guides.

SM06 4158 

 

Laste Climbing area

Above the enchanting little town of Laste rise, in a magic frame of wonderful woods and breathtaking view, the four main boulders, that compose this desire crag. The boulders are: "Sas de Ròcia, "Sas de la Murada", "Sas de la Gujela" and "Sas de L'Aghinèl". They are ancient boulders deriving from a rock formation named Dolomia of Marmolada or Scillar.

 

Routes and grade

Laste : Sass de Rocia Nord  
Laste : Sass de l'Aghinel  
Laste : Sass de la Murada Sud  
Laste : Sass de la Murada Nord  
Laste : Sass de la Guesla  
Laste : Sass de Rocia Sud

 

Craigs of Malga Ciapela

The boulders are collapse from the south/est wall of Marmolada and they have the same type of rock: Marmolada limestone. This rock offers an atletic and technique climb, that it remind some itineraries of the south wall of Marmolada. This craigs is at 1.600 m. of altitude: uphill to Passo Fedaia, at about 1 km. after the start of the Marmolada's cable car, till the beginnig of a ski lift (left side of the street). Leave your car here. Cross the grasses, here it is possible to the top of the craig. After that remain on the left side till a stream, cross it and uphill through the wood for about 100 m along the trail.

Route and grade of Malga Ciapela

 

Craig of Pian dei Fiacconi

This craig is located at the foot of the Marmolada's glacier west side of Sass de la Doudecs in a breathtaking environment with a wonderful view over Sella group and Sassolungo.

This craig is located at 2600 m high and there are compact limestone plaques with little holes and thin layers. The routes have the same feature of the famouse Marmolada's south wall and people can have the sensation to climb in an alpine environment.

For information: Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi tel. 0462 601412

 

piandefiacconitopo

 

N.RouteHigh Difficult
1 Battesimo 30m, 28m   5b+, 6a
2 Baby 15m   4c
3 Maccherone 15m   5c+
4 Briciola 20m   4b
5 Merlot 28m   5b+
6 Alle otto è pronto 28m, 30m   5c+, 6c+
7 Tettino 30m   5c+
8 La sagra del buso 32m   5a+
9 Argo 32m   5c
10 Sembra facile 32m   5c+
11 Boca del cielo 32m   6a+
12 Speranza 32m   6c
13 A Piera 28m  

6c/7a

 

Marmolada routes

     

40 ANNI RIFUGIO FALIER

40 anni rifugio Falier takes a beautiful line which cuts straight through the impressive pillar, visible from the hut below.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Marmolada
7c+

DIE BRUDERLIEBE

Bruderliebe was first ascended in summer 2011 by Hansjörg Auer together with his brother Vitus.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Marmolada d'Ombretta
8b/+

DON QUIXOTE

Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded ar&ecir ...
Dolomites
Marmolada
Marmolada d'Ombretta
6

LARCHER - VIGIANI

First ascended by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in summer 2000 over a four-day period from the ground-up, the route climbs an incredible line up.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Marmolada d'Ombretta
8a
 

 LINEA D'OMBRA

First ascended from the ground-up in 2003 with 8mm bolts, this nice 250m route takes a line up the left-hand side of the Gran Vernel buttress.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Avancorpo del Gran Vernel
7a+

 MASTRO LINDO

First ascended from the ground-up in 2007 with stainless steel bolts, Mastro Lindo takes a line to the right of Linea d'ombra.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Avancorpo del Gran Vernel
7a + (A1)

OPUS POCUS

Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Piz Seràuta
8a max
         

THE SCHWALBENSCHWANZ

The Schwalbenschwanz, or swallow’s tail, starts to the right of the Don Quixote, climbing up similar rough compact grey slabs.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Marmolada d'Ombretta
6

SOLDA'-CONFORTO

This classic route is one of the most repeated on the Marmolada. It follows a line up the South Pillar of Punta Penia, overlooking the Passo Ombretta.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Marmolada Punta Penia
7-
     

TEMPI MODERNI

Tempi Moderni, or Modern Times, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca. It is a class route.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Punta Rocca
7+

TEMPI MODERNISSIMI

Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi is on the Sasso delle Undici.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Sasso delle Undici
7c+

VIA ATTRAVERSO IL PESCE

A legendary route, and quite rightly so; a true masterpiece of Dolomite climbing. Nowadays the “Pesce” has become a classic extreme route.
Dolomites
Marmolada
Marmolada d'Ombretta
7+, A2 (7b+)
         
         
         

 

 

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